John T. Cummings
John T. Cummings (1826-1900)
John T. Cummings was a prominent figure in Maryland's distilling industry, best known for founding the Melvale Distilling Company and building it into one of the largest and most prestigious producers of rye whiskey in the region. Cummings' journey from a commission merchant to a successful distillery owner reflects the entrepreneurial spirit of the time, and his legacy remains influential in the history of Maryland’s whiskey industry.
Foundations of Success
Cummings was born around 1830, and by the time he was in his 50s, he had established himself as a successful commission merchant in Baltimore. His business skills and acumen provided him with the means to pursue a new venture in the burgeoning distillery industry. In the 1880s, he opened the Melvale Distillery on Cold Spring Lane, located in the Jones Falls area just north of Baltimore. The distillery was built around a pre-existing stone structure that had been in use since the early 19th century, originally serving as a water-driven sawmill for flour and cotton production.
The distillery’s location, near key transportation routes, and the repurposing of the stone mill allowed Cummings to expand the operation efficiently. While none of the original Melvale buildings are believed to remain today, the stone structure still stands, now part of the Fleischmann Vinegar Distillery.
Building the Brand
Under John T. Cummings' leadership, Melvale Distillery became synonymous with quality rye whiskey. The company’s flagship product, Melvale Pure Rye Whiskey, was widely regarded for its high flavor, character, and bouquet, making it popular for medicinal and other purposes. By the late 19th century, the Melvale brand was one of the most prestigious in Maryland.
In addition to the Melvale brand, the Cummings family also produced “Lake Roland Whiskey,” named after a 100-acre reservoir in Baltimore County, connecting the brand to the local area. Melvale whiskey was sold in amber glass bottles, ranging in size from small flasks to quart bottles, contributing to its premium image.
Adapting to Industry Changes
In 1897, the passing of the Bottle in Bond Act by Congress marked a significant shift in the distilling industry. The Act established strict regulations governing the production of bonded whiskey, including aging requirements and government oversight. To meet these new standards, the Cummings family overprinted the Melvale labels in red, indicating that their whiskey was produced under the Act’s terms. This adaptation not only complied with the law but also reinforced the brand’s commitment to quality.
That same year, John T. Cummings and his son, William, joined a syndicate of local distillers to acquire the Orient Distilleries, renaming it Canton Distilleries. This move highlighted the Cummings’ need for additional whiskey supplies, despite their distillery already having one of the largest mashing capacities in Maryland. The expansion into Canton Distilleries allowed the Melvale brand to meet growing demand and further solidify its market presence.
Growth and Expansion
Records from the Maryland State Tax Commissioner show the rapid growth of Melvale’s production. In 1897, the taxable value of Melvale distilled spirits was reported at $168,196. By 1905, this number had more than doubled to $373,316, and by 1912, it had reached $446,880. This growth was supported by the distillery's exceptional railroad access, which helped Melvale Distillery become the largest whiskey producer in Maryland.
During this period, John T. Cummings passed away in 1900 at the age of 74, and his wife Ellen had died earlier in 1891. After his death, his son William B. Cummings, who had been working with him at the distillery since a young age, took over management of the business. His younger brother, Alexander, joined as the company’s secretary-treasurer. Under their leadership, Melvale Distillery continued to expand, eventually reaching markets outside of Maryland.
The Legacy of the Cummings Family
By the early 20th century, the success of the Melvale brand was evident in the rise of copycat whiskey names, including Melville, Melwood, Mell-Wood, and Melbrook. These imitation brands, which often relied on customer confusion to gain sales, highlighted the prestige of the Melvale name. Despite these attempts at market intrusion, the Cummings family had secured a trademark for the "Melvale" name in 1902, protecting their brand against such infringements.
As Prohibition approached, the Cummings family faced the challenge of the impending nationwide ban on alcohol production. While Maryland resisted statewide prohibition laws, the 18th Amendment, passed in 1919, imposed national Prohibition. Historians suggest that Melvale Distillery was designated as a bonded warehouse, allowing the Cummings family to continue producing grain alcohol for government purposes for several years during the dry era.
The Sale of Melvale Distillery
Despite efforts to adapt to the new restrictions, the distillery's operations were severely impacted by Prohibition. In 1925, the Cummings family made the decision to sell the distillery, marking the end of an era for Melvale Distilling Company.
Enduring Prestige
The Melvale brand remains an important part of Maryland’s distilling heritage. At its peak, Melvale was one of the largest and most respected rye whiskey producers in the Mid-Atlantic region. A 1902 salesman's rate book from M. Durner & Co. of Cincinnati lists Melvale at $1.45 per quart, compared to Old Taylor Bourbon at $1.00 per quart, demonstrating its premium status in the market.
Though Prohibition brought an end to the Cummings family's ownership of the distillery, the Melvale brand’s influence continued, as evidenced by the number of similar-sounding brands that emerged in the whiskey market during the early 20th century. The legacy of John T. Cummings and his family is a testament to their vision, hard work, and commitment to producing high-quality rye whiskey that helped shape the history of Maryland’s distilling industry.
Today, the site of the original Melvale Distillery stands as a reminder of the Cummings family's contributions to American whiskey production. Though none of the original Melvale buildings remain, the preserved stone structure is a lasting symbol of the distillery's important role in the region's industrial and cultural history.
Contributed by: Barrett Straub, Lexington Park, Maryland
with support from Bill & Vicki Gallagher, Mid-Atlantic Rye Whiskey Section Editors, Marriottsville, Maryland
References: https://pre-prowhiskeymen.blogspot.com/2018/05/the-distillery-even-prohibition-couldnt.html
https://wikimapia.org/2347596/Fleischmann-Vinegar-Distillery-formerly-Melvale-Distillery
http://www.ellenjaye.com/mval_melvale.htm
James H. Bready, “Maryland Rye: A Whiskey the Nation Long Fancied—But Now Has Let Vanish,” Maryland Historical Magazine (Maryland Historical Society, Winter 1990): 370.